Northern Cyprus. Famagusta
For one of the dinners I met a married couple who travel from Istanbul. Svetlana, our compatriot in the past, former athlete, he once met on the basis of shared Hobbies professional sports with a Turk (I can’t remember his name), and ten years ago moved to Istanbul. Now they have two children, the eldest of whom went on sporting the footsteps of their parents, and every year they rest on the Turkish part of Cyprus, complaining about expensive roaming between essentially two Turkish territories. She told me and suggested what things cost, how to get there and most importantly – how to find the nearest supermarket and to walk there without the risk of heatstroke. Same evening, as soon as I feel better so much that I ventured to foray outside of the hotel, we went there in search of cheaper, rather than in the restaurant, food and water.
The path was very pleasant, as promised, Svetlana. You had to walk along the beach, past the private beach until you see on the left of the underpass under the road, “more like a collector”. So it went, right on the water, sometimes plunging, why the heat is barely felt. On the shoreline outside of the official beaches were more narrow and wild, but fairly clean. Here and there rested the Turkish-capriccietto family, throwing sand on their mats and baskets of food.
Did not have time to enjoy a walk in the embankment under the road loomed a doorway transition. Only having been in the Cypriot transitions, you begin to appreciate the magnitude where you can play football. Cypriot underground passage is narrow and low – slightly more than the height of a man, devoid of all sorts of decoration and finishing, and having inlet and outlet light switches. For this gift to the people (and this is a gift, given tall bump along the entire route), according to Billboard, it was necessary to thank the construction company “Noamer” selling cottages on the coast.
Supermarket “Doktorlar Sitesi” was small and full to overflowing with everything necessary. So we went out with a few bags of all sorts of jars, bottles, thankful that the room has a fridge.
And the next morning, rising early, went to explore Limassol, the closest port town where they had to get on a ride. While caught the car, which is quite difficult, I noticed an interesting feature of the local snails: at night they climb on palm leaves and hang them in orderly rows, and when the sun, fall off.
The driver, a simple Cypriot laborer working on the same window, not a word understood in English, but, nevertheless, some instinct knew where we had, and landed right in the center, taking 20 euros, as a gift of fate.
Just around the corner from the Central square are one of the gates to the Old city.
Behind the gates run chaotically winding streets full of cafes and souvenir shops. They depart from the less crowded side streets, frozen in its historical development during the time of the split of Cyprus. They worn-out and therefore an abundance of picturesque frozen in time of antiquity.
The first was on our way between the stunted buildings emerged a dilapidated Greek Cathedral of St. George, built in the XV century, with Gothic and Byzantine elements.
The building of the Cathedral of St. Nicholas (in the days of Turkish rule to it was added a minaret, and the Cathedral was renamed the Lala Mustafa Pasha mosque) was so great that to remove it carved facades was in pieces. The Cathedral, built in the XII-XIII century, is considered one of the most beautiful Gothic structures of the Mediterranean.
Angara streets leading to the Sea and collar, which is to this day the port has long since turned into tourist shops.
Gates themselves are guarded by a lion statue, to get to which without injury was for me a difficult case because of a narrow but deep ditch – apparently drainage.
There, on the corner of the streets in front of the Sea gate, raspolagetsya a wonderful bakery with fast food “Petek”. Such amount of various sweets I have been! It is a pity that because of the heat there they did not want. To make any representation about them, I ordered some cool white souffle-green, sprinkled with pistachios. Despite refreshing color, it was the same cloying, like all Oriental sweets, so then I didn’t come off from water bottles.
Further our way lay past the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul, a more holistic and monumental buildings than previously seen.
Nearby is the Palazzo del Proveditore – the Royal Palace of the dynasty Louisiana. What is left today from this famous buildings of the XVI century, it is unlikely to be called a Palace, however the main features of the Renaissance are preserved.
In place of the destroyed part of the Palace now houses the square, which has preserved the cannon and core tools, folded neat slides. To lift one thing is very difficult even for a man.
Further our way was picking my way along the outskirts of the Old town, along the defensive walls, where there was a little living quarters, but met the trees, giving us little pieces of the shadow, fleeing from the rising to the Zenith of the sun. Ibid., fenced in for some reason the barbed wire field, we found the Church of the Carmelites, the construction of the XII century, built by the Carmelite order and was once the former one of the most beautiful monasteries of Famagusta.
Under the fences of private houses were seen cacti, exactly like once lived on my windowsill, only with a thick woody trunk and increased two times above me.
Latin St. George Church is another example of Gothic architecture. It remains of a round altar wall with Gothic arches and the bases of other walls.
Very beautiful gate of the Church, they are not locked, but within there is nothing but laying the foundations of the ruined walls and through traffic to parallel street.
Further, passing the many small churches and ruins, shady back streets in the Old town centre to take a taxi back in the afternoon to walk around Famagusta becomes difficult due to heat, which radiates every stone of the ancient city.
The next morning I woke up to an alarm clock at 6 am, to finally enjoy the cool waters. I looked out the window and for the first time in recent days found a cloud in the sky, why dawn was the unusual texture.
Strips of algae, similar to a cassette tape that washed up on shore and eventually spresovuyetsya there in a tight high mattress, reflected the rising sun with a dry, glossy surface.
At such a time the beach is deserted and the water crystal clear.
On the mound, separating the wild and the civilized beaches, early fishermen have already fished something. Isn’t this delicate fish, which is so delicious cooked for dinner in the restaurant?
Finally, we got used to the Northern Cyprus, and he to us. The next outing decided to go to the ancient city of Salamis, halfway to Famagusta, but more about that in the next post.